Edirne

About — Edirne

Edirne, near the Greek and Bulgarian borders, served as the Ottoman capital before Istanbul. It is about 2.5–3 hours from Istanbul by road, so a day trip is possible, but one night lets you see the bridges at sunset. Hotels are in the compact centre around the Selimiye Mosque, within walking distance of most sights.

The Selimiye Mosque, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the masterpiece of the architect Sinan, with a vast single dome and four slender minarets; restoration has been under way in recent years, so part of the interior may be closed. Beneath it, the Selimiye arasta bazaar sells fruit-shaped soaps and almond paste (badem ezmesi). The Old Mosque (Eski Cami) is known for its giant wall calligraphy, and the Uc Serefeli Mosque for a minaret with three balconies. The Sultan Bayezid II Complex Health Museum, a 15th-century hospital, explains how water and music were used in healing. The Ali Pasa Bazaar is a long covered market, and the Meric and Tunca bridges are ideal at sunset.

Family tips: summers are hot and winters can be cold and foggy; spring and autumn are most comfortable. Halal food is easy; the local speciality is tava ciger, thin slices of fried liver with crispy dried peppers. Visits to the mosques pause during prayers. The Kirkpinar oil wrestling festival is usually held in late June or early July. A private vehicle makes the round trip from Istanbul easy, and Edirne is included in our Three Capitals of the Ottoman Empire package.